Maintenance And Care Of The Chameleon (I)

Because we import large quantities of wild-caught chameleons, especially in Madagascar and South Africa, one might think that chameleons are abundant in our terrarium animals. Certainly this is not the case. Anyone who knows the difficulties associated with caring for chameleons can imagine how many of the imported animals survive long after arriving at the importer's premises, and many more survive in the hands of normal buyer. They are very territorial animals who can not live in company, or kill stress. Almost all chameleons have parasites, which multiply dramatically in animals that have been weakened during transport and can be another cause of mortality. The fan who buys a chameleon in such a sorry state will have little chance of keeping him alive more than one or two months. Thus was born the legend of how difficult it is to properly care for chameleons.

The terrarium

The ideal location of a terrarium for most chameleons should be a place exposed to direct sunlight only during the morning hours or evening. Chameleons are very susceptible to overheating. Moreover, in the case of land chameleons, install the cage so that they never receive direct sunlight. The south-facing rooms are only conditionally suitable for mountain species have, because in summer the temperatures can be too high. In summer, you should put the outdoor terrarium.

Unfortunately there is no universal terrarium for keeping and breeding. On the contrary, each cage must be constructed, equipped and maintained according to the needs of the species it will contain.

Terrariums more readily available and most useful are the aquarium glass tanks, with the panels glued with silicone adhesive. Any pet store will have a good selection, with tanks of different sizes and shapes, at reasonable prices, and may also provide tailor-made terrariums if you prefer you.

All chameleons terrariums prefer very wide to those who are long but narrow. The possibility of retreat to the back of the cage contributes substantially to the welfare of the animal. The dimensions of the cage depends on the size and temperament. For chameleons live in trees and shrubs, the height of the terrarium must be greater than the length or width. Ground for chameleons, terrariums whose length and width are greater than the height suitable. Most terrariums are sold commercially are suitable only for the chameleons of land, but not too expensive or difficult to send special high-order terrariums.

Ventilation openings are important in the selection of the terrarium. Especially in small terrariums, ventilation openings should allow regulation of the needs of humidity, temperature and air circulation. The opinion so often that chameleons need plenty of fresh air is good only for a few species. It was said that poor ventilation was the cause of many diseases and disorders by actually keeping errors, such as stress and overheating. For all chameleons is essential that the lid or side or front of the cage has a vent, so that air does not stagnate. Increasing the size of the grid, the relative humidity decreases. Reducing the size of the grid, the relative humidity increases. Animals originating in the rain forests, including most chameleons earth and leaves, need for being a relative humidity of 100% at night and 70 to 100% during the day. This can only be achieved in terrariums with ventilation openings which are quite small and often sprayed with water and completely. For some African chameleons highland terrarium frames made of wood or aluminum and walls made of wire mesh are suitable. There must be an opaque divisions of some kind (eg, towels) between adjacent terrarium to avoid eye contact occurs between the neighbors.

Terrariums that we use for most of our chameleons have glass walls. The sides and bottom are covered with thick slabs of cork or plastic with a colored background, and the fund may also lined with cork. Also, all the materials used can be used as substrate. With some species it is useful to stick a small flat stone next to the bottom wall, the chameleon can use it to dry out the skin loose when moving. The accessories consist of branches for climbing to help divide the interior space and meet the need felt by the chameleon climbing or in a few climbing plants placed around the decorations. If installed on opposite walls terrariums of a room, be careful that there is no clear line of sight. If necessary, you can get a curtain between the terrarium.
Special Needs

Let's use some special needs that must be satisfied for particular groups of chameleons. First mention of female oviparous species. So they can bury their eggs undisturbed, they need a substrate to a depth that depends on the species. A substrate of perlite or plastic pellets coated with 10 or 30 cm from a slightly moist mixture of sand and peat has been shown to give good results (do not use plastic pellets with small earth chameleons). If there are no conditions for spawning, the female retains the eggs, or just a pot of flowers. However, these species are few.

With land chameleons should not put a substrate and instead stick cork tiles on the bottom of the tank. Above these plates is placed a layer of cork chips, on which chameleons enjoy running and in which the female lays eggs. This layer acts as a substitute for topsoil in their natural habitat. Clearly, female chameleons of land also bury their eggs in the real topsoil when they have this substrate, but then it is very difficult to find the eggs, which is why we recommend not using real ground for him.

Many small containers are suitable for the breeding of chameleons newborns. Food storage containers are used slightly modified because it can dispose of easily, and come in a variety of sizes and shapes. Rectangular plastic containers and transparent, at least 12 cm long by 12 cm wide by 18 cm in height are excellent. Cutting the lid completely and is glued in place a thin wire. You can cut an additional hole, which is also covered with mesh, on one side. On the opposite wall sticking a sheet of opaque plastic or cork plate, so that the containers may be placed side by side without establishing eye contact between neighboring animals. The ornaments consist of twigs and a climbing plant as a Ficus pumila. Then put a fluorescent tube at the top of the container, the breeding tank ready for use. If temperatures in the tanks were too low, can be heated easily from the bottom by means of a heating cable, but be careful, because the young chameleons can quickly die from excess heat. For the whole is not a mere collection of containers, they can be neatly on a desk attractive.

At the amateur who has baby chameleons in regular amounts, you should build a permanent facility for breeding. The minimum recommended size is a small terrarium of about 10 cm long and 10 cm deep by 30 cm high, which can be enlarged easily as animals grow, reaching a size of about 20 cm long by 20 cm wide by 50 cm high. The terrarium of 10 cm by 15 cm deep by 50 cm in height have proved particularly effective. Because of the great risk of overheating, the entire top and a wide strip of the front would have to be used for ventilation. For use only fluorescent lighting for a time after birth, and only much later install a reflector "spot" to supplement the available light. The fixtures and fittings are exactly the same as for large terrariums.

All newly acquired animals should be handled with great caution, especially at first. It is imperative that chameleons are subjected to a fairly long period of quarantine. All can be used as normal terrariums quarantine cages, especially plastic models. The accessories should be as simple as possible: a substrate of newsprint, a plant in a pot, and some branches. If there is a parasitic infection, we must discard all before the end of the quarantine period and the necessary treatments. There must be a plant, because otherwise weakened animals would be subjected to constant stress due to the absence of caches and this would further weaken. During the acclimatization period the amateur has to control the terrarium to see if the animals eat and drink well and to see if they are injured. Droppings should be subject to laboratory tests to check for parasites, several times during the quarantine period.

Some species of chameleons can be free in rooms and greenhouses where environmental conditions are right for these animals. Some chameleons grow well in window boxes with abundant vegetation. However, we must look at some points. For example, install a reflector "spot" under which the chameleon can take "the sun" at any time. We must put a bowl of food within reach and sight of the chameleon. As the relative humidity is generally lower in a room in a terrarium, a Chameleon release must always have water to drink. The drinking water needs will be met if the plants are sprayed with a little water each day and gives the lizard a drinking water on alternate days. It is essential to enter very carefully into the room which is free to the chameleon, looking first to the ground, as many chameleons are not afraid to eat on the floor and is easy to step to an animal or crush it with the door against the wall. In this case, a mirror installed on the floor near the door can help you see behind the door when it opens only slightly.

Pregnant females of oviparous species present a problem. Several days before start start looking for a suitable place to deposit eggs. We need not say how it will look a gardener after a female Chamaeleo pardalis has made numerous test holes. It put a fertile female in a suitable cage immediately after mating and remain there until you have laid eggs.