A typical settlement might be a rainforest in Brazil where you can find our tree-dwelling animal climbing a tree branch high above a stream, having at its disposal a few feet from a well balanced diet of fruits, flowers, insects and leaves, all free from preservatives and pesticides.
The fresh water from rain in the jungle often deposited on the leaves and vines from which to drink the iguana, and if it feels threatened or alarm can jump several feet downstream to be made safe. Even more beneficial that these factors are the heat rays of the equatorial sun. In addition to supplying the heat necessary to maintain the digestion and metabolism, the intense tropical sun's ultraviolet rays also allow the iguana to develop the complex processes inside your body and use the most vitamins from your food. It would be difficult to describe a more peaceful existence than there is in this situation, where you have to reach all the necessary ingredients for a perfect life, and it's free! Is it paradise?
At first it may seem, but the tropics, and is a perfect environment for iguanas are also ideal breeding grounds for parasites and harmful bacteria. A plethora of ticks, mites and leeches are here ready to suck the blood of an iguana and transmit diseases to change. A variety of predators, from birds to big boas (which when hungry can dispense with diet only warm-blooded prey) consider the iguana an adequate food source, especially the unfortunate who become ill or injured. No man can be excluded from the list of predators, since iguanas are hunted for food, edible eggs, and for the inevitable pet trade. With this more realistic view of the Iguana environment how can we establish a captive environment where the pet can thrive?
Many pet owners feel the need to imitate the "natural habitat" where host their iguanas, creating sophisticated land terrarium, live plants, water and other details. While undoubtedly picturesque, well-intentioned this model rain forest is not suitable for captive iguanas for different reasons. The moisture needed to keep a terrarium of this kind would jeopardize the health of the iguanas frequently causing skin problems in animals. Any dirt, moss or humus provides asylum to numerous germs and bacteria, and if you have live plants to bloom, probably the iguana will eat them all.
On the contrary, it is best simply opt for a dry terrarium, preserving as much base as possible: what you lose in appearance to the gain in animal health.
A new home
Although you can buy or build different types of cages, the most common is to choose a fish tank or aquarium glass. It is easy to clean and maintain and offers good visibility and is much easier to heat than a receptacle mobile herbal or wood. Probably for the first years will be enough a tank with a volume of about 80 to 120 liters, but if you anticipate the future size of the iguana, agree a higher model (between 160 and 400l). You have to decide the material to be used as a substrate (or bottom layer) of the cage, with many possibilities to choose from. Again the most attractive option may not be the most practical and should be considered whenever the animal's health first and second presentation of the terrarium.
It should consider the following points:
1) control moisture and odor.
2) Cleaning.
3) Easy to maintain.
4) heat conduction.
5) Cost.
6) Presentation.
Then we will try each of the current options, noting the advantages and disadvantages that I could find.
Absorbent paper. A good substrate for the cage ideal sterile quarantine (new copies, sick or injured). Moderately expensive considering that you have to change it every day. Obviously, with a dull appearance but very functional.
Arena. The fine white silica sand found in pet shops is my personal preference.
A good hot stone partially buried in dry sand, heat the cage floor. The overall appearance is pleasing offering a reflection of the light tends to shine in the cage.
Food waste and faeces dehydrate rapidly and can be removed to catty style kept to a minimum moisture and odor. If sand is flooded (for example, water volcarle plate) to be withdrawn and spread to dry it or try to use a stove for this. The young iguanas that are constantly crickets and worms can eat it too substrate and suffer abrasions in the mouth, which must be borne in mind.
Depending on the size of the pet, the substrate needs to be renewed approximately every month (when the smell starts to rise). Its cost is reasonable.
Gravel. In many respects is similar to the sand is slightly more expensive but you can wash, rinse and dry, so it can last indefinitely. Although other publications say that an iguana may ingest gravel voluntarily to help the digestion process (such as the crop of a bird), I have never seen my own iguanas eating gravel on purpose (eg, sand for parakeets served in separate container ), but it is confirmed that particles appearing in the feces when used as substrate.
Corn cob husks. Wood chips. These two substrates are similar to those used for the care of exotic birds which are commonly used to coat the cage. Virtually are refractory to absorption of moisture and odor. Its cost is low despite the fact that these substrates must be renewed every few days, and practically the only drawback that they encounter is their poor thermal conduction. In fact I would not trust any fixed heater buried in one of these flammable substances, and any cage coated with any of them be heated externally.
Wood pieces (chips). Available in nurseries and greenhouses, wooden parts are an excellent floor for the cages. Its advantages are similar to those of the chips, but more attractive and natural appearance. Pieces should be chosen only clean and dry, normally sold in bulk, prepackaged better than that can hold much moisture. Thus, by choosing sufficiently large pieces, place themselves introduced lizards. The cost is very low, and the disadvantages are: low heat dissipation, flammability and ability to crickets seem to be able to hide entirely of that material.
Artificial turf. Probably the best material for interior and exterior green sold to cover patios and porches. It combines ease of maintenance with its good looks, is thus a fortunate choice, especially for novice fans. Not being especially absorbing moisture dissipates quickly in this synthetic material, and the smell and the spread of bacteria is minimal. Weekly should be given a thorough wash that only takes a few minutes, plus another half hour of drying. Heating can be made from hot stones, and can easily remove the shackles of its surface.
Heating of the cage
Iguanas come from the tropics of South America and require fairly high temperatures. Under no circumstances can we expect an iguana thrive at room temperature simply can not do so without serious danger to animal welfare. Should be sought at a temperature of about 32 to 35 ° C in the cage, with a maximum of 40.5 ° C and a minimum of 27 ° C, these being the critical limits. For in the cage a quality thermometer and carefully attends his instructions without trying to rounding. A method to keep warm the cage is to heat the room where you're located. This procedure may not be practical if you have only an animal, but if it is to have multiple iguanas and an assortment of fish, the easiest solution may be to enable a "reptile room" and heat the atmosphere of this. If this is not possible the tank will be heated directly, there are several ways to do it. A pad can stick to the bottom or the back wall of an aquarium, which will radiate some heat and keep warm all the glass panel. Inside, the pad can be buried in sand or gravel or hidden under a sod of turf to achieve the same effect.
More effective action would wrap the pad around a log or branch where the iguana can climb. Here we say a few words about the location of the heat source side relative to the assembly. The source of heat, either pads or hot stones resting on the bottom of the cage, attract the iguana to the ground, contrary to their arboreal habits, giving an unnatural perspective. One expects to see the iguana hanging from a branch, not lying on the floor like a dog on a lazy summer day.
In this case the scene we want to see and what is best for our pet match, because the iguana seems to prefer a radiant heat source from above as she enjoyed her freedom.
Good effect is achieved using a heat source located at the bottom of the cage to supply heat at all times by adding a second source, heating it (which may be a filament lamp) for use during the day.
This procedure not only a pleasing visual effect, but also mimics the natural cycle of birth of the animal. It also ensured that the maximum occurring in the cage during the day to become more like the sun (light bulbs), while at night should be on the ground to stand on objects that store heat (heating pads).
The artificial stones comprising small electric heating units, are a highly recommended accessory for use with reptiles. However, for my part consider them only as supplemental heat sources because most of them do not heat the cage. Little pleasure experience the animal lying on a rock whose surface is at 38 ° C while breathing air at room temperature to 18 ° C. This aspect of the issue will never be fairly weighted. Iguanas need a high temperature and continuous, not just a hot spot to warm your tummy.
Besides the fluorescent lamp light emitting stimulating plant growth which is already used for lighting, it is worth adding a sunlight as described above. An incandescent filament bulb 50 to 70 W fixed in or on the cage is sufficient to provide the radiant heat necessary.
Recall that the iguana has a tendency to approach when possible to the source of heat and can suffer serious burns if it comes into direct contact with the bulb. Therefore the system must be fixed to the outside of the cage (to light through a screen or the ceiling of the cage itself) or appropriately protected with a screen.
Accessories
Even if your iguana's habitat can be as elaborate as your imagination says, the minimum equipment necessary to make it up:
1) A cage.
2) A substrate.
3) Lighting.
4) A heater.
5) Bowls for food and water.
6) A device for climbing.
These last two sections are self explanatory, but deserve some comment.
Almost any tree branch used to climb, but keep in mind the cleaning. If you use branches or wood from outside rather sure they are clean, parasite free and dry. Wood that has been in the open may contain bacteria, parasites and bacteria, so as a precaution should be bathed in a mild bleach solution and then washed and dried. This technique is borrowed from the tropical fish hobbyists, who washed and bleached wood, coral, etc.., To avoid contamination of the aquarium water. If you encounter an iguana infected with mites must use this procedure to treat the animal and prevent re-infection by mites and their eggs hidden in the wood.
For water and food containers used strong that they can not overturn easily. Personally I prefer the dishes of stone used for dogs. A stone in the water dish to help secure and provides an island of refuge for crickets that would otherwise die by drowning.
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